“Many who have come to Waterville year after year without setting foot on their slopes feel them as a quieting presence, watch them day after day as they change with shifting light, yet are ever the same” [Nathaniel L. Goodrich on the “town at the end of the road,” Waterville Valley, 1892]
When I wrote my piece on Waterville Valley last winter, my first impression was that it was a beautiful, mystical place, laden with snow and full of crisp, mountain air. However, our trip this time, would be slightly different. We would not be seeing cross-country skiers, residents snowshoeing, and fire pits roaring in the middle of Town Square with rosy-cheeked vacationers with libations flowing freely. Point being, Waterville, as we’ve found is well known for its winter beauty, and is the gold standard for hockey tournaments, ice fishing, skiing, and all forms of winter recreation – but, what you’ll read below, is that it’s also an incredible place to visit at the end of the summer and early to mid fall, with plenty of activities and sightseeing. This is a season in which you will find an entirely new sub-group of people inhabiting the Valley than you’re used to: late season campers, hikers enjoying the 48 4,000-footers, swimmers cooling off in local ponds and rivers, and fly fisherman trying for some local Brook Trout – the weather was warm in the middle of the day and crisp in the morning and at night – it was perfect.
So, come with us and take a stroll down to Jugtown on a cool, crisp New Hampshire morning and sip your coffee in the Town Square gazebo as you watch the fog lift off of Corcoran Pond against the backdrop of vast mountain ranges.
Where to Stay
**The Golden Eagle Lodge** – FSS Recommended
The Golden Eagle Lodge in the heart of Waterville is our favorite place to stay in the Valley. It is an expansive lodge, that sits against a few mountain ranges, and is directly above Town Square. The architecture and grand presence it gives, would remind you of something you might see in Colorado or the Swiss Alps. Fully equipped with a game room, pool, jacuzzis, and saunas, this is a great place for a family retreat.
One of the main reasons we lodge here is because the staff is incredibly friendly and accommodating – Tina, Gina, Kevin and Sheri will take good care of you while you are there and will make sure you are comfortable and are enjoying your stay – if you have any questions about your stay, activities, or history of the area, do not hesitate to ask them – they make you and your stay a priority at the Golden Eagle.
First Person Perspective – Town Square and Mad River Path
We arrived at the Golden Eagle around 5pm – the entire ride along the Mad River was full of vehicles from other New England states: presumably, fly fishermen, hikers, campers, families enjoying a swim in the cool river, photographers, bikers, runners, and walkers. This was an entire different group of people than we are used to seeing in the winter months, and we were excited about the opportunity to see what the Valley had to offer in the early to mid fall. As soon as we drove past the “Entering Waterville Valley” sign it seemed my anxieties and stressors of the outside world slowly started to dissipate. Surprisingly, my children also stopped crying.
We pulled in, checked-in, and I took a moment to stretch my legs and take a deep breath of fresh, crisp mountain air. After settling in, I took a walk into the still solitude of the night down through the pathway out of the lodge that leads to the Town Square. Only a few lights were on; the night was calm and peaceful. As is customary in my family, I took a quick walk down the Mad River Path to unwind from the drive; all I could hear was the trickling of the river, hoping in the back of my mind not to run into any black bear activity. I circled back and stopped on the bridge over Corcoran’s Pond and listened to the quiet brook again and drifted into a sort of daydream-like phase. A few seconds later, a noise from some folks leaving the Olde Waterville Pizza Company snapped me out of it. I took one last look at the dark mountainous shadow over the gazebo and Corcoran’s Pond and trekked back to the Golden Eagle.
What to Do, Early Fall Activities
Clark’s Trading Post
Clark’s Trading Post, which was originally founded as an organization that trained Bear’s to do tricks in the 1920s. It has become a tourist destination with several attractions with a train ride, bumper boats, and shops – truly a great place for kids.
Hiking – Mad River Path
In the heart of Waterville you will find the Mad River Path. It is is a short, wonderful hike along the Mad River that is great for families. There are small hemlock trees, several wooden bridges, and mid-way there is a beautiful brook full of river rocks to explore.
Hiking – Smart’s Brook Trail and Day Use Area
The Smart’s Brook Trail is about 15 minutes from the Valley on Route 49. An hour into this easy hike is the Smart’s Brook, which is a 10 foot pool of fresh and cold mountain water – great for a dip and to relax and listen to the cascades.
Further down the road from the Smart’s Brook area is the White Mountain National Park’s Day Use Area. The Day Use area is an eddy that has occurred in the Mad River, and allows easy access for kids and toddlers to go swimming. You can also go camping, fly fishing, and is an overall great place to hang out, have a beer, and put your feet in the cool water on a hot day. It is very close to The Dam Brewhouse, so stop in and see John and grab a crowler to go!
White Mountain Athletic Club
There is nothing quite like doing a cannonball into a cool, outdoor pool as you look at the expanse of mountains that surround you before your head becomes submerged in water.
The White Mountain Athletic Club is a two minute walk from the Golden Eagle and is a full service athletic club that partners with the Golden Eagle. We took advantage of the outdoor and indoor pools, jacuzzis, and kid-friendly splash pad.
Other Valley and Greater Valley Area Activities
Valley: Legend’s Arcade, The Bookmonger, Jugtown, Valley Pub, Hacienda Mexican Restaurant
Greater Valley: Pick apples and tour the [Robert] Frost Place, Polly’s Pancake Parlor
Where to Eat and Drink, Valley Edition
**Benton’s Sugar Shack** – recommended by FSS
Benton’s Sugar Shack is everything you’d expect and more. A converted “sugar shack” to breakfast joint (a “sugar shack” is a cabin that is utilized to make maple syrup) in Thornton, New Hampshire, is about a ten minute drive from the Valley. All of the syrup is collected and harvested and made in-house and is distributed to patrons in plastic squeeze bottles. The syrup is incredible. I am not talking about your Mrs. Butterworth’s high-fructose molasses corn syrup with yellow-9 and blue-2. This is the real deal, one-hundred per-cent homemade New Hampshire maple syrup. Before you leave, make sure you purchase some to bring home with you (I have been putting it in my coffee as a substitute for sugar!) The Benton’s also run the Boogie and Blues festival on the “Pemi” (Pemigewassett River) – this year will be the 25th anniversary. Check them out and support local!
First Person Perspective
We walked in, and saw the Mountain Man outside with a guitar, laden with the Gadsen Flag motto, “Don’t Tread on Me,” giving ode to the “Live Free or Die” vibe and motto which New Hampshire is famous for. As you walk in you can smell the fresh maple syrup. Electric guitars, Grateful Dead-esque memorabilia adorn the walls, as well as historic pictures and awards for best maple syrup. The place was packed and we ordered pancakes, eggs, sausage and gravy. It was incredible.
**Olde Waterville Pizza Company** – recommended by FSS
The Olde Waterville Pizza Company is our favorite restaurant in the valley (we went twice). Awesome vibe, cool interior, epic craft beer menu, and all around great staff. Mike, the owner is usually making pizzas and talking Red Sox or Celtics. Introduce yourself and let him know Foodies South Shore sent you!
The Dam Brewhouse
The Dam Brewhouse is near Benton’s and is about a 10 minute drive from the Valley. It is a converted house into a brew pub and has been slowly growing over the years. John, the owner brews some incredible beer and is always up for good conversation and debating over the best hiking and swimming holes in the area.
**BONUS**
**Schilling Beer Company** – highly recommended by FSS
Although not technically in the Valley, Schilling Brewing Company in Littleton has become a bit of tradition for us – if you haven’t been here, go here as soon as possible!
